ILLIMANI: Boliviako izpiak eta hizkiak Bolivia 2006
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Date
2006

Place
La Paz

 
Text
Up side down:

La Paz is full of zapatistas these days. I didn´t actually ask the indians in the capital whether they were followers of Marcos. I just decided to nickname them zapatistas because you always find them sitting on street corners, like fishermen fishing for zapatos (shoes), waiting to see whoase shoelace they can grab, whose shoes they can pull over, to give them a shine in exchange for a coin or two. And to improve on my cheap joke, I also call them zapatistas because they have their heads covered, only letting their eyes be seen. The Zapatista Army was all over La Paz.
Talking of which, my eyes started picking up on all sorts of up-side-down things. Earlier on I had seen last night´s zapatista sitting with dirty shoes by thye roadside. He was orphaned at the age of ten, and has lived in the Cemetery neighbourhood ever since. He looked like he didn´t have any customers, and was watching the people passing by. In front of him stood a small, barefoot child. Unfortunately the shoeshine didn´t have any soap in his box.


Hankaz gora:

Indigenen begiak jaiki direnotan zapatistaz betea agertu da La Paz. Tira, ez nien galdetu ea Marcosen jarraitzaileak ote ziren. Baina zapatista ezizendatu nituen, kale kantoian eserita, zapata arrantzan egoten zirelako. Ea zein lokarriri helduko, zein zapata ekarriko, txanpon baten truke, lustrez igurztera. Eta txiste merke hori pixka bat garestitze aldera, zapatista deitzen nien, burua estalirik zeramatelako. Begirada bakarrik zuten agerian. Eta La Paz osoan zegoen zabaldua Ejertzito Zapatista.
Ero haizeak jo ninduen batean, munduaren aldrebesak gaia jarririk, alderantziz zeuden gauza guzien bila hasi zitzaizkidan begiak. Bezperan ezagututako zapata garbitzaile zapata zikina ikusi nuen lehenik, bide ertzean eseria. Hamar urterekin umezurtz gelditu zenetik Hilerrian bizi da. Ez zuen bezerorik itxuran, eta oinez zebilen jendeari begira zegoen. Haur txiki bat pasa zitzaion aurretik. Oinutsik. Eta zapata garbitzaileak, kalkulu falta, xaboirik ez izan kaxan.

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